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Denim or Damn It: Ethical Issues Facing Popular Jeans Maker

Peter OngerabyPeter Ongera
November 26, 2023
Reading Time: 4 mins read
Denim Or Damn It

A Collage of Denim Collection PHOTO/Courtesy

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My guess is that you are wearing or in your wardrobe there is a jean trouser, or shirts and skirts made of Denim.

Denim is perhaps one of the most well-known and commonly worn fabrics there is, from the classic blue jeans to jackets, dresses, overalls, and more. 

Although the Denim industry was said to be worth between $65 billion and $75 billion in 2022, the supply chain was taken aback by reduced production and lower costs.

Therefore, leading the consumers to struggle with rising prices while the cost being paid to suppliers drops.

According to a report by Ethical Denim Council, the disconnect between purchasing practices and the pursuit of fair wages differ greatly.

For instance, suppliers find themselves unable to raise wages or ensure equitable compensation when brands cancel orders and delay payments.

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Denim Or Damn It
A collage of men in Denim Jacket PHOTO/Courtesy

Also, the suppliers overwhelmingly express a pressing need for compliance clauses within their contracts, offering them a vital safeguard against unethical behavior.

Ethical Denim Council (EDC)

Did you know there was a watchdog, to monitor the denim industry?

Well, the Ethical Denim Council (EDC), is a newly formed nonprofit organization which is based in New York.


Also Read: Uncontrolled Global Clothing Pollution


Notably, the council unveiled an illuminating report, on the present state of the denim industry.

According to report gleaned from a voluntary survey of players, the denim supply chain delves into the industry’s current purchasing practices and their impact on the workforce, shedding light on crucial issues that demand immediate attention.

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“The EDC 2023 State of the Denim Supply Chain report clearly demonstrates that brand pricing and other purchasing practices often undermine our sustainability and worker well-being goals.”

“The inclusion of a compliance rider to protect suppliers and their workers is a crucial step toward addressing this concerning trend,” Report advisor, Dr Mark Anner emphasized.

Sustainability Puzzle

The buzzword ‘sustainability’ echoes throughout corporate corridors, as companies pledge to protect the environment and advocate for workers’ rights.

However, the Ethical Denim Council’s report underscores the undeniable reality that despite this rhetoric, little progress has been made.

Born from the Transformers Foundation’s 2020 report exposing unethical practices within the industry, the Ethical Denim Council emerged as a platform pushing for a fair and equitable denim industry.


Also Read: 10 Items that are Cheaper in Uganda than Kenya


It aims to bridge the gap between purchasing practices and workers’ compensation while dismantling existing power structures that favor brands and retailers.

“It’s disheartening to observe that suppliers within the denim industry are not treated with the same commitment to compliance that is readily embraced when it comes to social compliance.”

“Neglecting commercial compliance equally impacts the rights and security of workers. One would expect that brands, valuing their reputation, would seek to avoid the issues our poll has unfortunately uncovered,” EDC founder Andrew Olah stated.

Notably, the Ethical Denim Council’s report serves as a call to action, spotlighting the urgent need for reform within the denim industry.

Also, it echos with a resounding message: the time has come to transform the industry’s practices, ensuring a more sustainable, ethical, and fair future for all stakeholders.

Denim Or Damn It
A collage of women in Denim Suits. PHOTO/Courtesy.
Tags: DenimEDC
Peter Ongera

Peter Ongera

Peter Ongera is an award-winning investigative journalist whose fearless reporting has exposed corruption, human rights violations, and illicit financial flows across Kenya and the African continent. With over a decade of experience, Peter has become a trusted voice on issues of governance, electoral integrity, and democratic accountability. His deeply researched stories have been featured by respected platforms including the Thomson Reuters Foundation, Internews, Africa Check, Lida Network, Hivos, and Context. Trained in digital forensics, open-source intelligence (OSINT), and fact-checking, Peter combines cutting-edge verification techniques with a passion for evidence-based storytelling. He has also mentored emerging journalists across the globe, equipping them to hold power to account. Through his work, Peter champions a journalism that not only informs but drives systemic reform; empowering communities to demand transparency, justice, and lasting change. You can reach him at [email protected].

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